Category: Bra Making

A ready-to-wear look easy enough for Beginner bra makers??

It’s easier than you think to have the look and feel of a custom or high-end retail bra, even for beginner bra makers. The answer is found in scuba print fabrics!

What is scuba bra making fabric?

Scuba fabric is a double-knit fabric made with finely spun polyester fibers to create a smooth hand with a low luster sheen and a full-bodied drape.  While named after the material used in scuba suits, this is not thick neoprene.  

Instead, the scubas we select for bra making have a slight spongy feel like ready-to-wear, a medium to medium-light hand so they will drape well with some stretch.  Scuba is printed on one side with a very soft back.  The Gigi’s Bra Supply exclusive scuba prints include both animal prints and floral prints.  Because the scuba print fabric has a stretch of 10% to 25%, we would back the scuba with either sheer cup lining, duoplex or cut-and-sew foam to give it the stability you need for cups.

Additionally, scuba print fabric is absolutely gorgeous!  

Using a backing fabric provides the freedom to ignore the DOGS (degree of greatest stretch) of the scuba fabric, allowing us to position our pattern pieces in any place and any direction to give the perfect printed pattern matching between the left and right cups.

The technique that makes this so approachable for a beginner is called “fussy cutting”.

With fussy cutting we add one additional step – just one step!

Fussy cutting is a term often used in quilting to feature a special part of the fabric, for example, you might want to feature a certain flower or color you especially like.  Fussy cutting is a great way to customize the scuba to feature any of the design elements … for this Bluebells and Roses scuba, I would have the bluebells face inward toward the center front, which means the fabric would be mirroring (the Left Cup bluebells will face toward the Right Cup, and the Right Cup bluebells will face toward the Left Cup at the center front).

This Pin Up Girls Bralette pattern has a prominent center front so I would use the ¼ inch seam line to match up the center front…remember, you are stitching these together so you’re matching at the seam line, not at the edge of the fabric.  Other patterns might have cleavage in the front … in that case, you might want to match up or mirror the design on a different part of the cup.

We will prepare our pattern pieces for the cups as normal, and then add ¼ inch seam lines at the spot where you want the scuba fabric to intersect … either at the center front, or at another match point.  The cups are curved so you’ll have to choose a spot you want to feature, and not try to match up the entire cup.  Next, place the pattern pieces on cardstock or heavy paper to trace a Left Cup and Right cup.  Cut out the pattern piece and you’ve created a cardstock window to use on the scuba.  Cut out a Left Cup and a Right Cup frame so you can see how each cup will intersect at either a match point or the center front.

Next, we lay out the scuba print fabric on the cutting table and use the cardstock window frames to frame the floral or print exactly how we would like it to appear.  Remember, because we are lining the scuba print with a stable fabric like sheer cup lining, duoplex or cut-and-sew foam, we do not need to worry about direction at all.

Once we have the design we want lined up in the window frame, mark on the paper frame any details. Then use a fabric marking pen to transfer the pattern onto the fabric, and be sure to transfer match points onto the fabric. (You can put them on the back or front in the seam line, but you will need them to make sure your pieces line up correctly.)  Once you’ve traced the pattern piece onto the fabric, use a small rotary cutter or good sharp scissors to “extract” the fabric piece that is exactly the size, shape and print pattern that we desire!

When our scuba pieces are cut out we will place them on top of the corresponding pieces of sheer cup lining, duoplex or cut-and-sew foam (remember, with the duoplex and cut-and-sew foam, we do follow the direction of greatest stretch, as shown on the pattern, as normal).  We can use fusible webbing to secure the two pieces of fabric together, or we can use a wash-out glue stick to temporarily connect them.  By using either method, we make it easier to sew because it is as if we are working with one combined fabric, instead of messing with keeping two fabrics in alignment.

We’ve already looked at the mirroring of the bluebells.  Now take a look at the animal print fabric.  This print has a darker section and a lighter section of the design.  I’ve used the window to put the darker designs toward the center front.

The grey and red scuba bralette features another way line up the scuba – notice how the leaf design continues from one side of the center front to the other.

Whether you are mirroring a design, or matching, the ¼ inch seam line marks will show you where the fabric pieces will intersect … those ¼ inch seam lines will be your best buddies as you sew the cups.

Now sew the fabric pieces and enjoy your gorgeous new bra!! 

Here are the steps for bra making scuba success:

1. Decide which parts of the beautiful scuba you want to feature
2. Add ¼ inch seam lines to the pattern pieces in the areas where you want to match the design, or mirror the design.
3. Make a Fussy Cut Frame by tracing the pattern pieces onto cardstock.  Make a Left Cup frame and a Right Cup frame ensuring that the center fronts are faced the correct direction.
4. Use the Fussy Cut Frame on the fabric to “frame” the bra cup pieces to highlight your preferred designs on the fabric.  Trace the pattern onto the fabric.  Keep the pattern pieces handy and to transfer all match points and ¼ inch seam lines.
5. Place/adhere the scuba fabric piece onto a backing fabric (sheer cup lining, duoplex or cut-and-sew foam)
6. Sew the fabric pieces as directed in the pattern.
7. Wear your gorgeous new bra!!

Give yourself some grace the first few times you try matching or mirroring.  It might take a few tries for your eyes to “see” how the pieces will come together.  Even if the design doesn’t line up exactly as you planned, you’ll still have a gorgeous new bra!

Jeannie New is the owner of Gigi’s Bra Supply, an online bra supply store featuring professional quality fabrics, elastics, findings, and patterns for bra making…and USA distributor of Bra Makers Supply, Canada.  We’ve helped thousands of customers finally get a supportive, beautiful, comfortable bra.  We love our customers…and we love comfy curves! ™  

A broken leg, lockdown and lecture strikes led to me putting my university course on hold; in a desperate need to fill my time (to prevent me driving my mum crazy) I returned to sewing. I’d outgrown my clothes again, my cup size growing “disproportionately” to RTW clothing. Once I had a few garments under my belt – and obsessed with period murder mysteries during third lockdown – I fell in love with vintage fashion, the sexy allure of foundational garments. I grew a burning desire to buy some, especially bullet bras (or as I prefer, torpedo titties). Sadly, my new bra size fell just outside of most vintage bra companies, and I could hardly afford a custom make. 

Filled with grandiose plans and optimism I scoured the internet for a cheap pattern. How hard could making a bra without wires be?  Thankfully, I found a free pattern by VaVoomVintage, complete with an easy 4 day sew along. (Reader, it took me far longer due to exams and coursework.) Still on my few days off, I cut out the DD pattern, added an inch to the cups and retrieved my torn cotton pyjama trousers. I cut my pieces, basted the cups together in an attempt to check the fit (difficult because of my short roots and pendulous breasts). I forged ahead with sheer determination.

I do like a French seam (and I lack good pinking shears) so I used this in almost all seams, except when I forgot to leave enough seam or simply got confused and stitched right sides together anyway. 

Spiral stitching. I procrastinated, scared of catching a finger; I watched VaVoomVintage’s video, and searched for other blogs by those who made her pattern. Luckily, as I raided my local library for sewing books, I found “Lingerie Design: A Complete Course.”

I took the plunge without marking my circles: a mistake. I recommend grabbing a compass or a circular object to mark concentric circles on the cups either separately before seaming together, or pressing down the fabric after stitching the seams, or – probably neatest – fill the cup and draw circles on the 3D shape. Then slowly stitch in separate circles/semi circles or a spiral, gently pulling the fabric away as you go. Contrasting threads and different patterns also would look wonderful as VaVoomVintage points out.

The rest of the sew along is straightforward, although before assembling everything think about the unfinished edges. I folded mine twice and stitched on the sewing machine for an untidy result. A trim added at the end might work better or a rolled hem foot.

I ploughed on, making bra straps from the carefully unpicked and resewn ex-cuffs of my trousers, attaching by hand. The underband was 10cm too large on me, so I folded in the excess on each side before adding the hook and eyes by hand. For a final flourish I added buttons to the front from the original placket that I had saved. 

The fit is difficult to tell without sewing the entire bra. I had to shorten my side bands again but could not lengthen the height, so I added in an extra piece between the armhole and the bra strap for more support. The band is still too big! Next time I would squash the side band and lengthen the height so that it keeps everything in when attached to the cups. Elastic straps are probably far more comfortable. The cups fit well, although I wish I had marked my circles particularly the bust apex, where the centre of the circles should be.

This pattern was easy enough to make though and a very fun foray into lingerie sewing without faffing over underwires (the enemy of my sticky-outy rib cage). I also liked how simple it was although the instructions were a little sparse. I have made up my own instructions which can be found and saved from my Instagram @lemonysews

I’m a mathematician who likes to sew vintage garments. I’m interested in the history of fashion, especially Wartime Britain, and the topology & geometry of garments. See all of Cesca’s makes on insta @lemonysews

I am a process person. The more intricate and detailed something is, the greater interest I have in it. So, when I started sewing lingerie I was hooked. Every quarter inch, the arch of every curve, mattered. My brain was happy and wanted more. So, I did what every other obsessive nerd would do and I went book shopping 🤓

Since my initial book purchase, my lingerie sewing and construction book collection has grown to have several books. I quickly became known in the bra making community as the person with the books. I read them all (probably more than twice), took notes, and shared what I was learning on my Instagram. My followers would frequently ask about the books and which one(s) they should get, which led me to film a YouTube video breaking down the most utilized books in my collection and their pros and cons. This article is that video in text. 

Prefer video format? Check out Cyndel’s video:

Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction by Norma Loehr (Orange Lingerie)

This was the first book that I bought when I started sewing lingerie and it is the one that I recommend the most to anyone getting started in lingerie sewing. This book, as the title would suggest, is all about sewing bras and getting the perfect fit. This book does not contain information about drafting bra patterns. 

What I love about it:

• Clear and easy to read
• Lots of photos (though at times there could be more)
• Troubleshooting guide by bra part (cup, cradle, etc.)
• Pro tips throughout the book – these really helped up my lingerie sewing game from the start!

To be honest, there isn’t anything I don’t love about this book. It is super handy for its intended purposes. If you are advanced in your bra making, I think most of the information in this book would be familiar to you – so that would be my only caution. 

Bra Pattern Drafting (Pt. 1 & 2) by Merkwaerdigh 

Sewing bras for me quickly evolved into sewing bras for others. Ethically, I knew it was important to me to learn how to draft my own patterns – which led me to purchase this digital book from Etsy. I think it is important to know that prior to learning to draft bra patterns, I did have limited pattern drafting experience – enough to know the lingo and very *slowly* bust out a draft. 

The thing that I think is coolest about the Merkwaerdig method of bra pattern drafting is that literally anyone can do it. In many ways, learning how to draft a bra pattern this way would be a good stepping stone into another method if you’ve never drafted patterns before. You can absolutely create a solid master bra for yourself with this pattern. I will say though, this design will take more tweaking to get an accurate, fitting bra for yourself. Though clear measurements are provided, this method uses an even grading system that assumes the body grows equally between sizes and uses two sizes (36B and 46B) as the “mother size” of all sizes. In my experience, that means there is a lot of room for human error in grading that leads to sizes fitting more poorly as they move further from the mother size, but if your intention is only to create a pattern for yourself, this method would be more than sufficient.

What I love about it:

• Anyone can draft a bra using this method
• Measurements and clear directions are provided with diagrams showing the drafting process 
• Clear grading instructions are given to size up or down
• Fairly short in comparison to other drafting books
• Great way to learn terms and tools of pattern drafting

Some things for consideration:

• It’s not as accurate as other methods, but if you’re willing to make some test bras and figure it our, this method could be great for you
• Though the grading instructions are clear, I personally do not love the even grade system or the idea of mother sizes – I also am not confident you could apply the grade rules to the master pattern that you have made alterations to, I think you would have to make adjustments to each individual draft

Bare Essentials: Bras by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks (Porcelynne)

This is the second drafting book that I purchased. The first half of the book is about bra fit and construction and the second half is about drafting and grading. If you think you have long term interest in bra pattern drafting but are just getting into lingerie sewing – this may be the book for you! It is the best of both worlds. 

From a construction standpoint, this book teaches you all you need to know about basic construction *plus* how to make some tricky alterations to hone in on a perfect fit, but unlike the first book mentioned it does not have a trouble shooting guide per say.

From a drafting standpoint, this method is deadly accurate. I have never made a more well fitted bra on a first pass than I have with this method. It uses some pretty specific measurements from your body in addition to your preferred underwire size. For my needs, this method was too specific for me to make a wide variety of sizes as I would have no way to procure the specific measurements needed (fun fact: there really is no standardization in bra sizes, but if you’ve ever worn bras before you probably could have guessed this). That being said, if you’re looking to make a bra pattern for yourself or loved ones, this method is worth the time and effort it takes as you will have less frustration with the fitting and final outcome.

What I love about it:

• Best bang for your buck – in depth construction, fitting, and drafting/grading information
• Most accurate method for drafting bra patterns
• Teaches fit alterations that can be otherwise tricky 
• Clear and well written with lots of step-by-step diagrams
• Instructions for both drafting and grading by hand OR digitally

Some things for consideration:

• From a drafting standpoint, I would say it would be beneficial to have some experience drafting patterns to utilize this method, otherwise it may be confusing
• Though this drafting method is the most accurate, it can be time consuming (though you’ll likely have less trouble down the road) 
• If you are looking to use this method to draft a wide variety of sizes, you’ll really need to consider how you will procure or standardize the measurements needed to do so

The Bra Makers Manual (Volume I & II) by Beverly Johnson (Bra Makers Supply)

If you have been around my Instagram, it is no shock to you to see these books on this list. For me, they have been the most practical in my bra pattern drafting journey. I basically carry Volume II with me at all times. Like other books on the list, you’ll find information on construction and fit (even the bra throughout history) as well as drafting and grading – though I would recommend these books more for their drafting information than construction.

This construction method is a happy medium between the Bare Essentials and Merkwaerdig Method in that it is detailed, but not too specific. All of the information you need is in the book – which means if you are hoping to draft for a wide variety of sizes, Volume II is a practical start. One of the biggest differences in this book compared to others is it uses an uneven grading system which assumes the body does not grow evenly between sizes (and actually makes a lot of sense when you read it). 

What I love about it:

• It’s written like a guidebook, just flip to the section you need and go from there
• Best method for drafting a variety of sizes with accuracy
• Step-by-step diagrams throughout the book
• Easy to read and understand
• All the information you need is in the book

Some things for consideration:

• As with the Bare Essentials drafting method, some previous pattern drafting experience would be beneficial for all the same reasons
• This book does not contain clear information on grading – it does on grade rules – but not on the actual process of grading 

In conclusion, every book in my collection has advanced my lingerie sewing skills or knowledge in some way. I think having these different books with similar but slightly different perspectives has given me an in depth understanding of lingerie design and construction I would not have if I just read one book. And of course, these are just my thoughts and opinions which are based on how I think and understand the world – the books I have found the most helpful may not be your favorite, or vice versa for the books that have been less helpful for me, they may be the best for you. Everyone learns differently so it is great that there are so many resources out there for us to utilize. My hope is if you are looking to purchase a lingerie sewing construction and design book you can take some of the guesswork out of the process and pick a book that will meet your needs!

And finally, I love to be a friendly face in this community. Sometimes it can feel as though lingerie sewing information is gatekept which can be very frustrating. I try to answer all questions that I get to my inbox regarding bra design, fit, and construction (I will even send you videos). I share my process in my stories frequently and love to learn from my followers as well. I hope you’ll connect with me @WednesdayLingerie.

Cyndel is the sewist and creative behind Wednesday Lingerie, her small handmade-to-order lingerie shop. She is a passionate designer and educator.

^Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, Sew Busty will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. All opinions remain Cyndel’s.

Editor’s Note: Since we’re making the Firebrand Jet Set Natural bra this month’s sew along (use code SEWBUSTY for 20% off her patterns through the end of July!), I thought it only appropriate to hear more from Kerry – the designer behind Firebrand Lingerie – about where her love for vintage lingerie comes from. Throughout this post, you’ll see pictures of Kerry’s vintage lingerie collection. Let’s dive in!

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been a lover of lingerie. For my 13^th birthday I asked for a delicate pink lacy teddy. Much to my surprise, my Mom actually bought it for me! Sort of scandalous if I think about it now! From then on I chose to wear the most pretty, feminine lingerie I could find.

At age 17 I went to work in the lingerie department of The Jones Store, a longtime staple of Kansas City department stores. There I really fell in love with bras. This is where I learned how to fit. I loved being able to put a person into the correct bra size and see how their whole attitude changed. I felt like I was changing the world, one bra at a time.

At the same time, I became a lover of vintage clothes, especially the 1940s and 1950s. This was a time when women got dressed, even when just running out to the grocery store or to the hairdresser. In my teen years I would scour the racks at the thrift store for vintage dresses, which were pretty easy to come by at the time. This is where my love of vintage lingerie began. I loved the simple femininity of bras from the 1940s, which gave way to the astounding architecture of bras from the 1950s. By the time I was an adult, I became a collector of vintage underthings.

I’ve been collecting vintage lingerie for years now. It started with vintage stockings. I amassed a collection of over 1000 pairs. Along the way I also collected corsets, girdles, and bras. My focus shifted to bras more recently, especially since I am still amazed by their construction.

When I decided to merge my love of vintage bras with my love of sewing and patternmaking, I came up with the idea for Firebrand Lingerie. The first pattern I released was the Jet Set Bullet, a true bullet bra in the 1950s tradition. It, along with the rounder but still vintage inspired Jet Set Natural, have been the cornerstones of my little pattern company.

Along the way, my bra collection has grown. I still seek out the most unusual bras I can find, mostly from the 1930s to the 1950s. The oldest bra in my collection is a delicate lace bandeau from the 1920s.

I don’t think I will ever get tired of collecting vintage lingerie. I like to photograph my collection and share it on Instagram @firebrandlingerie. In addition, I’m working on releasing new patterns in true vintage style, with inspiration from my collection. I certainly hope you find vintage lingerie as alluring as I do. Thanks to Lindsie at Sew Busty for allowing me to share one of my greatest passions with you. I hope you find a little inspiration from my words! Have fun, and happy sewing!

Want to hear more from Kerry? Join our Jet Set Bra sew along live chat on Sunday! More info here! Not on Facebook? No worries. Click here to join directly via Google Meet on June 27 at 3 PM EDT.

Kerry Phillips is a lover and collector of vintage lingerie, especially bras. She started Firebrand Lingerie to fill a niche for sewists who love vintage lingerie as much as she does. You can find her designs at firebrandlingerie.com and @firebrandlingerie on instagram.

I like to think it was my lucky day when I stumbled across a bra sewing pattern!  Before I began sewing bras, I’d never owned a bra that was very comfortable or fit the way I wanted.  I’d spent valuable time and money trying to find a comfortable, well-fitting bra and typically settled for one with a “good enough” fit.  I have a small to medium size frame, large top-heavy breasts, and encounter the typical fit issues with RTW bras such as quad-boob and ill-fitting bands.  I somehow came across bra sewing on Pinterest and before that moment, it had never occurred to me that I could sew my own bra. I figured that if I could sew clothes, I could probably sew a bra.  Without hesitation I purchased the pattern, the Marlborough Bra from Orange Lingerie, and I was off!

Sewing my first bra took many hours of sewing, ripping, and re-sewing pieces together with tons of trial and error.  The pattern directions were foreign to me as I had never sewn anything like this before.  Sewing the bra took google searches, lots of cussing and head scratching, but once I was done, I was so proud!  And holy shit, the bra kind of fit and it was kind of comfortable.  It wasn’t pretty from all the seam ripping, repeated sewing, and crooked top stitching but I loved it.  I ran to show my husband, wearing the wonky bra like I was wearing a prize bra made out of gold!  This bra while not perfect, fit better than any RTW I had ever owned.  I was hooked!

With my first bra under my belt, I felt like I could sew another one but wanted to focus on the fit.  Fitting a bra is a whole other can of beans and has been the hardest aspect of bra sewing for me.  A bra may fit well enough to stay on your body but it may not fit correctly, for example, it may be too loose in the upper cup or the band may dig in. My first bra was too small in the cups and I began altering pattern pieces just like I would with a clothing pattern.  I would search online for tutorials and blogs on how to fit a bra from a pattern and would find many different ideologies as to what order to make pattern adjustments and how to go about making each adjustment.  I would spend a lot of time making these alterations and my final outcome would be better, but was still not the fit I was going for.

When searching for bra pattern alterations, I came across a YouTube video on how to draft a custom bra. Thanks again, internet!  Bra drafting is when you take your body measurements such as full bust, high bust and under bust and use them to create a bra pattern that is custom to your body.  I was hoping that by starting with my own measurements I would have better luck at fitting a bra with less alterations.  Bra drafting is similar to drafting a bodice sloper using lines and curves to create a close-fitting custom pattern.  

I draft by hand with pencil, paper, rulers, a compass, and erasers, lots and lots of erasers.  I use the Bare Essentials method from the book “Bare Essentials: Bras: Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design” by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks (I also use the 2nd edition).  The book also offers instruction for creating a bra sewing block from the initial sewing pattern which means there is no limit to the styles of bra I can create.

Drafting took a LOT of trial and error and I’m not embarrassed to say it took me at least 50 drafts to get anywhere near something that looked like a bra pattern.  I was constantly scratching my head and asking myself, “what am I doing wrong?” I would re-read directions and even had my husband try to draft to see if he could figure out what I was doing wrong.  I kept trying and failing, would take a break and then try again.  I found a “Support for Bare Essentials” Facebook group where I could see other people trying to draft with similar drafting issues as well as tips and tricks.  I eventually sewed a successful bra and with few alterations, I have a very well-fitting bra!

Bra sewing and drafting can be exciting, frustrating, confusing, addicting, and I personally find it a whole lot of fun.  With each bra I’ve sewn and drafted, I’ve learned something new.  I encourage anyone reading this who may be on the fence about sewing or drafting a bra to go for it, you won’t be alone!! There are so many bra making forums and communities with people who want to share their knowledge about bra sewing!

Hi my name is Emma, I’m a craft obsessed woman who also loves sewing bras. I live with my awesome hubby John and our 2 sweet boys, Luke and Wade.