Bra Making | Adventures in Postpartum Fitting

Porcelynne’s Eve Bra pattern has long been my favorite bra pattern. I came to this pattern about three years ago, new to bra making, after a few patterns had just not worked for me. I had (and still have) a very narrow-rooted, projected shape, so other bra patterns required a lot of wireline alterations that I just wasn’t up for as a bra making beginner.

Back in 2020, it took me just 3 tries to get a well-fitting Eve.

In the meantime, while I was pregnant and breastfeeding, the Eve got a refresh. More on that later, but the sizing and shaping has changed slightly. But 3 years, a baby, and nearly a year of breastfeeding later, it took me just 4 tries to get a good fit this time.

Three to four tries might seem like a lot, but it’s really not. I tried the BMS Classic bra several times and never got even close to a well-fitting bra.

One reason for it taking so many times is choosing bra size based on my underbust/full bust difference just doesn’t work for me. Back in 2020, Eve was sized based on numbers, and my measurements put me at a 30 band with a size 5 cup. It was hilariously small, so I next tried a size 10 cup, which remained hilariously small. I ended up with a 30 band and size 14 cup.

I have theories about why this measuring system just doesn’t work for me, but I digress.

Now, let’s talk about present day: My experience was incredibly similar, except I was able to get a wearable toile on (basically) the first try!

Like I said earlier, during my pregnancy Jen from Porcelynne redesigned the Eve. It still has the modular design that I love, but with an even more expansive size chart. The Eve covers 28-52 bands, AAA-N cups, and 7 different wire shapes. I was pleased to open the new pattern files and see that each cup size has a super wide range of wire sizes, so you don’t have to fiddle with altering the pattern for your best wire. I did find the shape to be a bit more rounded than before, which many people will love, but I really really loved the pointy shape of OG Eve, so I altered my cup to be a bit more pointed.

I started with a fitting band using the method in the Sew Busty Beginners’ Bramaking Guide. I started with a size 32N, based on the Porcelynne Infinity wireless bra I recently made. (The size chart puts me at a 34I-J, but, based on what I knew about measurements not really working for me, I knew that was not going to be right!) I opted for a 44 vertical wire; I wore a 42 vertical pre-baby, but I had tried on my old fitting band and realize'[-P]]’d it felt a bit pokey, so I swapped the wire out for the 44V wire, and it was perfect.

The 32 band was a bit short, so I threw some extenders on it and made a note that I needed to add a couple inches before using pretty fabric.

The next step was to add cups to the fitting band. I used wash away thread to attach the cups so I can easily swap them out for different cups if needed. I started with the 32N cups (though, with my extra couple inches added to the band, sister sizing would mean I was really making a 34M) in torso shape V4, based on my torso measurements.

I first threw some foldover elastic on the neckline, and got quite a bit of looseness at the upper cup. While you can see my apex hits at the perfect spot, I’m just not filling the upper cup.

Thinking the issue might be my poor quality (Amazon-sourced) foldover elastic not creating enough firmness on my upper cup, I added some picot elastic on my right side, and it seemed the issues were mostly solved on that cup:

I did also take a bit of curve out of the horizontal seam, to create a more projected shape. Thinking this looked pretty good, I tried it out with some pretty fabric — some lace and duoplex, lined with sheer cup lining, from my stash:

One thing that’s really great about the redesigned Eve is the instructions — they’re so, so clear. And they include alterations instructions for some common fit issues. My fit issue wasn’t really in there, because how many folks have totally flat upper busts? lol But it was still helpful to see how Jen approaches some similar fit issues, and gave me confidence to just do what I needed to do — AKA sew some freaking darts.

You’ll see here that my breasts fill the lower cup nicely. I know you can’t see it, but my apex is in the perfect spot. But the upper cup is just too big — even with picot elastic. Thankfully, I was able to sew some darts into the upper cup to get a pretty nice fit.

The darts did cause some strangeness at the horizontal seam, but for my first real postpartum wired bra (not counting the cups I popped on my fitting band!), I was pretty pleased!

For my next try, I decided to try the 32M, with the extended band, so really a 34L. I chose a V2 torso shape, figuring that might help with my neckline issues. I took the same amount of curve from the horizontal seam, and also a bit of curve from the vertical seam, because I was still hoping for a more projected shape than the beige version.

For this version, I used a stabilized satin from Porcelynne that is essentially two layers in one, so I didn’t do a lining for this one. Y’all, I thought I would maybe spill out of this bra, but that it would at least be wearable. But instead, I got a really funky fit:

I know in some ways it looks better than the beige bra, but it honestly did not feel good. It was like my lower breast was being smashed, my apex was too high, and yet I still had extra fabric at the neckline. And, after 5 minutes of wear, it scooches itself downward, and the wires are no longer in the right place. It just didn’t have volume where I needed it. I was able to dart it a bit to make it wearable, but it’s still not really comfortable.

So I went back to my lengthened 32N (34M) — the pattern from the beige bra — and transferred those darts onto my pattern piece. The result was weird AF. A curvy, strange-looking top cup:

But I decided to trust the process, and tried this pattern. And, y’all. It. Was. Perfect.

For this bra, I used sheer cup lining from Porcelynne, lace from my stash (maybe originally from Emerald Erin?) and findings from Bra Builders.

I’m just in love with this bra. I love how it gives me lift, a nice projected shape, and looks fantastic under clothing.

After wearing this bra several times, I do have plans for some more tweaks for the next version: I’m going to take a tiny bit more wedge from the middle upper cup, and I’m also going to move the strap attachment inward a bit. I also need to make the gore a smidge narrower — the beige bra had the wires overlapping, but I think I made a small mistake in cutting the black sheer cup lining for this frame, and made the bridge wide enough that the wires weren’t overlapping, and I decidedly need slightly overlapping wires. (It’s still pretty comfy, but I do have slight rubbing at the top of the wires in the gore.)

I’m excited to keep iterating, and eventually make another bra sloper for even more designs!